Sweet truth: Dessert makeover

Written By Unknown on Minggu, 14 Oktober 2012 | 22.23

Predictable, plain vanilla desserts are out. From Japanese sesame cakes and green-tea ice-cream to dessert tasting menus, rounding off a great meal is getting more and more inventive.

You don't have ice-cream anymore, you go to a swish outlet and get yourself a gelato. You don't order caramel custard, you ask for a creme brulee. You may be a little confused about how to say 'meringue' correctly, but to dig into one, you just have to ask your nearest home baker.

The city once known for a certain chocolatey dessert that promised to cause fatalities is on a sugar high like never before. Restaurants are rolling out a dizzying array of desserts even inviting patrons to make a meal of sweet somethings while international dessert chains bring the most exotic flavours home at fine-dining prices. Restaurant kitchens are busy creating innovative confections and talented pastry chefs are in demand like never before, because no fine-dining restaurant worth its name will offer generic staples like cheesecakes anymore -- desserts have to be in keeping with a restaurant's theme.

So while the Oriental Rim Naam will offer you lemongrass ice-cream at the end of your meal, Bengali restaurant Oh! Calcutta will urge you to round off with a nolen gur ice-cream made from the finest Bengal jaggery. Not satisfied with that, some fine-dining places are also offering dessert meals. Olive Beach has created a three-course dessert menu with tasting portions of plated desserts based on a theme: berry, citrus, toffee or chocolate.

Starting with a light strawberry consomme, patrons can move on to an orange meringue filled with passion curd and served with a tangy chilled lemon sorbet. The 'main course' can be either a moist pineapple upside down cake served with roasted pineapple sorbet or a chocolate tart served with oatmeal anglaise and cinnamon ice-cream. This is followed by caramel pot de creme served with milk chocolate maple cream and smoked vanilla foam.

"Chef Manu (Chandra) and I thought it would be a good idea to create a tasting menu to take desserts to a different level. We have tried to do this by taking favourites such as meringues and pineapple upside down cake and giving them a new twist by adding fresh elements. For instance, some of our desserts have subtle hints of savoury items like chili, pepper and avocado not enough to overwhelm the basic taste but to add a subtle burst of flavour," says Girish Nayak, pastry chef, Olive Beach.

Desserts have always been about a bit of drama just think of the baked Alaska, which is brought to the diners' table even as flames lick the top layer of this famous dessert. West View - The Grill Room at ITC Gardenia is trying to create this by serving a creme brulee that is caramelised at the guests' table. Besides, the restaurant also serves up a warm passion fruit and basil soup, embellished with white rum and coconut ice-cream, as part of its signature desserts that are priced above Rs 450 plus taxes. "There is an increased demand by guests to explore contemporary and unusual flavors," says a senior executive at the ITC Gardenia.

The star property's Japanese restaurant EDO has a dessert menu that consists of goma mochi (sesame cakes with adzuki bean and milk), macha ice-cream (green-tea flavoured ice cream) and yuzu cheesecake (Japanese lemon cake). ITC Gardenia also offers customers a 'dessert bar' a buffet of 16 to 17 sweet dishes at the Cubbon Pavilion priced at Rs 750 plus taxes. "The 'desert bar' has both Indian and western specialties, with an ice-cream bar complete with hot sauces, candied fruits, toasted nuts, and a dedicated fruit bar international fruits like kiwi, rambutan and Californian grapes," says a hotel executive.

Abhijit Saha of Caperberry and Fava doesn't think desserts would work as a meal concept, but believes that the kinds of desserts being served at restaurants are evolving as consumers are always looking out for newer experiences. Caperberry has taken the tried-and-tested tiramisu with what it calls 'tiramisu live at the table'. All the ingredients that make a up a tiramisu are brought on a trolley and made in front of the guest in under five minutes. The fine-dining restaurant is also innovating on desserts using liquid nitrogen. "There is also a growing trend for lighter desserts that have more fruit content in them like kiwi and berries," says Saha.

Yuvna Damani, owner of dessert bar and patisserie A Spoonful of Sugar, tucked away in a bylane off 100 ft Road in Indiranagar, says, "The concept of dessert has evolved over the past five years thanks to the emergence of dessert bars and patisseries, which have made consumers more informed and have allowed them to experiment and try out various kinds of desserts." The average billing per person for desserts at Spoonful of Sugar is around Rs 500.

International chains like Haagen-Dazs are cashing in on this newfound craze for fancy confections. Steeply priced at Rs 200-plus per scoop, the super-premium chain offers ice-creams no, make that 'frozen desserts' in rich flavours such as cappuccino caramel truffle, raspberry sorbet, rum and raisin, macadamia nut and cookies & cream. The chain, which has outlets in several malls in Bangalore, invites diners to have a sit-down 'meal' of these cold goodies. Arindam Haldar, director - premium foods for General Mills India, which operates Haagen-Dazs outlets across the country, says, "There is a growing appetite among a section of consumers in Bangalore for a luxury gourmet experience."

Sweet nothings Panna cotta:

An Italian dessert panna cotta whose name is derived from the Italian for cooked cream is made by simmering together cream, milk and sugar, mixing this with gelatin, and letting it cool until set.

Tiramisu: Another popular Italian dessert made of a special kind of biscuit dipped in coffee, layered with a whipped mixture of egg yolks and mascarpone cheese, and flavored with liquor and cocoa. This basic recipe has been adapted into varieties of puddings, cakes and other desserts. Meringue: A crisp, baked base for many desserts made from whipped egg whites and sugar, and occasionally an acid such as cream of tartar or vinegar.

The mixture is baked at a very low heat for a long time. Amuse bouche: A single, bite-sized hors d' uvre. Amuse-bouches are different from appetizers in that they are not ordered from a menu by patrons, but, when served, are done so according to the chef's selection.

Petits Fours: A small confectionery generally eaten at the end of a meal, usually with coffee. The term encompasses a variety of small desserts, such as dainty biscuits, baked meringues, macaroons, or tiny cakes covered in fondant or glace icing, small eclairs, and tartlets. Profiterole: A pastry ball filled with whipped cream, pastry cream, or ice cream. The puffs may be decorated or left plain or garnished with chocolate sauce, caramel, or a dusting of powdered sugar.


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